La Barquita Restaurant, Phoenix

Only serious Mexican food lovers need apply to dine at La Barquita Restaurant, for these authentic aren’t dumbed down for mainstream palates. The décor is dive, with bars on the windows, but it’s clean and servers are friendly, even to people who are surprised to learn that the savory birria they just devoured was goat stew. One marvelous specialty is the molcajetes, big volcanic rock cauldrons of luscious soups stocked with delights like steak, chicken, chorizo grilled cactus, grilled green onions and ranchero cheese, all in a lavishly seasoned broth, to be scooped with warm flour tortillas, guacamole, salsa and refried beans. Margaritas are potent, in flavors like mango and strawberry.