I recently became obsessed with Celia, the telenovela about salsa queen, Celia Cruz. Her early years in Cuba enamored me so much that I’m now determined to visit the island myself. After talking to friends who’ve traveled there and amassing a serious salsa playlist, my curiosity is piqued. But American travel to Cuba is slightly more complicated than visiting other islands in the Caribbean. So I did some serious research and talked to a Cuba expert to learn more. Here’s what I found out:

Your Trip Should Fall Within an Approved Travel Category

There are 12 preapproved reasons for travel from the US to Cuba, and my trip would fall under a people-to-people educational exchange. I wasn’t sure what this meant, or how seriously it was taken, so I contacted Cuba expert, Christopher P. Baker, for more insight.

“These days, it's self-policing, you follow your itinerary of choice,” said Baker. He says that while no one’s paying strict attention, it’s still best to follow the spirit of your chosen category. In the case of people-to-people travel to Cuba, this means immersing yourself in the culture by attending performances by local dance groups, such as the Danza Folklorica, or visiting an art school, such as the Taller Experimental de Grafica in Havana.

When you buy your ticket, you’ll sign an affidavit confirming which category you fall under. Part of the deal is that you agree to keep documentation of your trip for five years, so start a diary and take lots of pics. You might never be asked for it, but it’s a good excuse for a scrapbook.

You Must Buy a Round-Trip Ticket and Insurance

Previously, you had to charter a plane or fly to another country to get to Cuba. Today several major airlines fly there, including JetBlue, American, and Delta. Buy a round-trip ticket because a return flight is required for entry. The airlines will help you arrange a Cuban Tourist card, a requirement for entry, which is good for 30 days.

Cuba also requires you to have medical insurance, but your US policy won’t cover you there, so you’ll need to pick up a separate policy for your visit. It won’t cost very much, and family deals are pretty easy to find.

Budget for Cash, and Bring Enough Money for Your Entire Trip

Credit and debit cards from American banks won’t be much help in Cuba, so be prepared for a cash-only adventure. Plan to spend at least $100 a day and know that running out of cash there is a real hassle. Also take into account that the Cuban government charges a 10% fee for changing US dollars.

Pro Tip: Avoid the Cuban fee on exchanging US currency by stocking up on Canadian dollars, British pounds, or Euros.

Cuba has two currencies: the tourist Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) tied to the dollar, and the Cuban Peso (CUP), which you won’t use much. Visitors can change their cash at exchanges, called CADECA, located at the airport or at hotels. Do not exchange money with people on the street; it’s a scam.

Internet Access in Cuba is Limited

The Cuban telecom company, ETESCA, sells prepaid cards at kiosks to use in WiFi networks at hotels and public parks only. There’s limited bandwidth, so it’s mostly for emails and checking in with home. Walking around, you won’t have access to many apps, so important info like emails and confirmation numbers should all be printed out ahead of time. You can also install a map app on your phone that works offline, such as Maps.Me.

Casas Particulares are Inexpensive B&Bs

Sure, there’s a selection of mid-range to historic luxury hotels, but they tend to fill up quickly and have inconsistent quality. Instead, consider the casas particulares. They’re similar to bed and breakfasts, but are less expensive and more personal as they’re typically private residences that have been opened up to travelers. They’re also a Cuban institution, and more importantly, make for an easy way to hang out with locals, learn about the culture, and sharpen your Spanish. They’re also a great way to fulfill the cultural requirements of people-to-people travel to Cuba.

Pro Tip: There are tons of listings for Cuba on AirBnb, so book your first few nights there. Once you’re on the island, you can ask around or look for the upside-down-anchor symbol that marks official casas particulares.

Rice, Beans, and Pork Are Staples Here

Cuba is rice and beans country, and that’s just fine with me. Meals are full of pork, potatoes, or starchy malanga, and spiced with the garlicky mojo. Grab Cuban pizza from street vendors, or try the “living-room” restaurants called paladares where locals serve more adventurous fare from their homes. You’ll want to drink lots of mojitos and Cuban coffee, a dark, rich espresso sweetened with demerara sugar, but skip the tap water. While it’s safe to use for brushing your teeth or in ice cubes, you should only drink bottled water in Cuba.

There Are Lots of Ways to Get Around the Island

The image of vintage American cars in Cuba is iconic. In cities like Havana, they drive up and down pre-established routes, taking on riders for a few pesos. It makes for a great photo op, but it’s not very convenient. Luckily, there are plenty of private taxis, cycle taxis, and rental scooters that can get you around.

Pro Tip: Agree with the driver on the price of a taxi before you get in. The meters are just for show.

To get out of the city, there are three ways to go. For long cross-island trips, just fly. There are lots of flights around the island, but you’ll need to book online ahead of time.

For shorter trips, the Viazúl bus system is inexpensive, reliable, and air-conditioned. Solo adventurers and couples will be fine on the bus, but families might find it challenging and should consider hiring a private taxi for more flexibility.

A Tour Package Can Handle All the Details of Your Trip

While my love for Celia makes me yearn for an adventure, planning travel from the US to Cuba may be too much to handle for some. If that sounds like you, check out a tour group. They take care of all the details, so you can just hop on a plane, show up, and explore, whether that means motorcycling across the island or diving into Cuba’s colonial-era cities.

Images by Nathan Johnson / Slightly color modified from original

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