High Tide Taco Bar, Farmingdale

Of the two dozen tacos on High Tide's menu, a third are vegetarian or vegan, including versions filled with sweet potatoes, blackened tofu, cauliflower or avocado with crushed peanuts. Another three are pescetarian — shrimp, cod, and seared tuna — while the rest run a Tex-Mex and fusion-y gamut from traditional chicken and steak to Korean (shredded rib-eye with sweet chili sauce and cabbage slaw), Philly cheesesteak-style and something called the High Tide, which layers shrimp with steak, chipotle aioli, queso blanco, and crispy onions. They run $3 to $4 each. All can come on flour or soft or hard corn tortillas and can be transformed into a burrito for an extra $7.50.

Owner Jeff Rumman — who also owns nearby Vintage Wine Bar and Bistro — opened the spot on Feb. 28 in the space where La Bottega used to be, marrying coastal hues and clean lines for a modern vibe. There is seating for about 50 divided between a front room, a small bar backed by Mexican tile and picnic tables in a covered, climate-controlled patio.

Tacos are the foundation of the menu, but High Tide also serves rice bowls (starting at $8), salads, and bites such as corn-chicken-black bean empanadas ($6.50 for two), 'loaded' fries with queso and bacon ($9.50), and mayo-slathered street corn ($3.5). On the sweet side are churros and rice-pudding empanada, and drinks range from bottled beer, margaritas and sangria to Jarritos sodas, Sail Away cold brew and iced teas in flavors such as raspberry-hibiscus.