Hop On Sushi, San Mateo

The specialty rolls at Hop On Sushi take their titles seriously. The Kimono roll, for example, dresses its tuna, hamachi, salmon, and avocado with a pink soy sheet, evoking the traditional Japanese robe. The Fire Dragon roll's mix of crab, jalapeños, and tuna is not only spicy, it's also torch-seared, then topped in a tangy thai sauce.

These rolls occupy the Maki Maniac portion of an exhaustive menu. Beginning with small plates of grilled king mackerel and ending with bento boxes of teriyaki meats, the selection spans Asian classics as well as creative inventions. California rolls share the table with kimchee-flavored diced salmon and power shooters—a shot of chilled sake, quail egg, and oyster that counterbalances the warmth of udon soups. If they'd rather not navigate the catalog of nigiri and rice bowls, guests can leave their orders up to the kitchen. Omakase-style dining covers three or five courses, all of which depend on the chef's whims and whether his tuna plants are in full bloom.