The Mumbai Times, Westport

Chicken entrees at Mumbai Times traverse both familiar and foreign territory. There's the ubiquitous chicken tikka masala, but also chicken chutneywala, prepped with curried mango and mint, and chicken makmura, a traditional Calcutta Jewish dish with almonds and raisins. Yet, the chefs ensure that the chicken's origins are far from unknown—any chicken dish can be made with free-range, on-the-bone poultry for a small fee.

In fact, free-range chicken grilled in the tandoori oven is a chef's specialty. It's but one of many dishes on a menu that spans India's northern and southern regions. To complement mainstays of vindaloo and rogan josh, the list boasts zesty kebabs and exotic sauces, such as the coconut tamarind variant found in the goan fish curry. An expansive vegetarian segment features bindi masala sasuralwali, or, as the accompanying text puts it, "okra you would eat at your in-laws' house."

For those who'd rather scope out their food in advance, a weekday lunch or weekend brunch buffet that takes place beyond the restaurant's mosaic archways hosts a sprawl of platters. The lunch buffet includes a glass of wine, whereas the brunch buffet comes with champagne, a better fizzy morning drink than seltzer coffee.