Inside Canton Phoenix’s spacious dining room, bright light pouring in from the numerous windows illuminates guests as they devour Cantonese cuisine and spin the lazy susan in the middle of the table to pass made-to-order dim sum to fellow diners. Chopsticks grab Hong Kong–style porridges, salt-and-pepper squid, chop suey mixed with warm steamed rice, and even chicken feet. In a corner of the dining room, a doorway leads to Canton Phoenix’s dimly lit lounge, where the sound of a cue whacking billiards balls mixes with music pulsating from the jukebox.