Frank's Steaks has all the respectable hallmarks of an old-school steakhouse: white linens, neatly folded napkins, and dim lighting to set the mood. But then there are the crayons. They aren't there to keep kids busy, but rather to let diners of all ages make masterpieces on the butcher's paper draped atop their table, with the most compelling works framed and hung on the walls.

Even for the loftiest artistic aspirations, Frank's signature Romanian skirt steak—achingly tender, juicy, and dripping in a marinade of garlic and duck sauce—is worth putting down the crayon for. Dessert keeps hands busy as well, with smooth sorbets, triple-layer chocolate cakes, and ice-cream pies arriving at tables in generous proportions.