Although all eyes are on the chef, he shows no sign of stage fright. While diners watch intently, he takes command of his tabletop grill, cooking tender morsels of sirloin steak, lobster, and scallops in the rising flames. Frosty glasses of Sapporo beer and Singapore Slings are momentarily forgotten as the chef flips slices of shrimp dramatically onto plates and pulls servings of fried rice out of a magician’s hat. This lively display of culinary skill takes place nightly in Kanpai Japanese Steakhouse’s dining room—a dimly lit space with traditional Japanese artwork festooning the walls.