"Zeke's Place serves some of the best breakfasts on the North Shore," claims Phantom Gourmet in its profile of this Gloucester restaurant. And the diners seem to agree: "Ridiculously good," says one customer about the food, while another asserts that, without exception, "everything is just amazing."

But in the words of the owner, Michael DeCoste, that's something of a necessity. "We have breakfast, and only breakfast. So we have to take breakfast to the next level."

That ambition can be seen in the open kitchen at Zeke's, as cooks deftly move from grills to mixing bowls, as well as on the cozy dining room's chalkboard of daily specials, which reads like an an encyclopedia entry for everything an enterprising chef could make with eggs. The regular menu reflects a commitment to satisfying tastes, too, with options including:

• Fish Cake Benedict: fresh fish cakes served with house-smoked Canadian bacon
• Omelets filled with combinations like sun-dried tomatoes, olives, sweet onions, and Tuscan cheese
• Paleo Power: grilled sweet potato served with eggs, avocado, and tomato salsa
• Fresh breads baked daily, including banana nut, biscuits, sourdough, and anadama, a traditional New England–style yeast bread